Sunday 25 March 2012

A Riesling Tide.


In my first post, I encouraged everyone to experience new varieties, and new styles. A friend of mine recently encouraged me to follow my own advice on a tasting in Canberra, and much to my surprise, I fell in love.

My wife and I recently went to breakfast with some friends to celebrate a birthday. After a fantastic breakfast at Podfood in Pialligo, we all decided to head to Mount Majura Vineyard as it was only 10 minutes drive away. The idea was that we would find something that each of us would enjoy with some cheese and crackers in the afternoon.

What we didn't expect was to find a cellar door set up almost like a restaurant. Every place was set with 4 glasses, and a mat with tasting notes for each of the wines available. My wife and I had attended structured tastings before, but not as drop-ins at a smaller winery on a Sunday afternoon. The woman who was leading the tasting was knowledgable and attentive, and allowed us to go at our own pace. She gave some insights into the winemaking, not just the usual spiel about the flavours the winemaker has identified. We were also treated to some less common varieties such as Graciano, however the Tempranillo, and the Tempranillo, Shiraz, Graciano blend (which I was particularly looking forward to) had recently sold out.

The surprise of the tasting for us was easily the 2011 Riesling. Neither my wife, nor I have been big fans of Riesling. I had, somewhat unfairly, pigeon-holed Riesling into the mass-produced, unsubtle and often overly sweet categories. The Mount Majura Canberra District Riesling 2011 has finesse, delicacy, and a lot of citrus-fruit on the nose. The palate was incredible. Luscious lime fruit, and a small amount of sweetness. Each of the couples in attendance bought the Riesling and the Graciano.

All of the 4 of us were converted instantly into Riesling lovers, and wanted to explore more. On the way back to their house, we stopped at Jim Murhpy's Airport Cellars and bought a Nick O'Leary Canberra District Riesling 2011 for that afternoon. This Riesling raised the bar again. The lemon/lime nose was complimented by intense green apple. The palate was even more refreshing and lip-smackingly crisp.

The discovery of Riesling inspired us to go back to Helm Wines in Murrumbatemen. We visited Helm a few years ago on a work trip with my wife's work colleagues. Ken Helm, the founder, is highly regarded as one of the finest Riesling winemakers in Australia, and is THE personality of the Canberra District wine industry. Ken's stories make a visit to the winery worth the visit, however the wines themselves aren't half bad either.

The Helm Wines Classic Dry Riesling 2011 is another solid performer, consistently achieving Halliday ratings in the mid 90's, and the Premium Riesling 2010 also offers a long cellaring life.

Rather unfortunately, what Ken describes as 'the vintage of his life' was somewhat spoiled by late rain just before harvest. The quality of the fruit wasn't much effected, but the quantities were severely diminished.

I am yet to explore Riesling's from other regions in any depth, however I am thoroughly enjoying exploring the recent vintages in Canberra. The last 3 years have been incredible, and 2012 looks like the quality will be incredible, if somewhat lacking in quantity.

The following Canberra Rieslings I have tried are of excellent quality, and are available at most retailers in Canberra, and Dan Murphy's, Vintage Cellars and 1st Choice Liquor in other cities:

$20-25

Nick O'Leary Canberra District Riesling 2011
Brindabella Hills Canberra District Riesling 2011
Mount Majura Canberra District Riesling 2011
Helm Wines Classic Riesling 2011
Eden Road Wines The Long Road Riesling 2011

$40+

Helm Wines Premium Riesling 2010





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