The Bottle That Changed Everything.

Every wine critic, journalist, blogger or home enthusiast tells a similar story about the origins of their passion. To some, that story could begin with a simple Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc. Others could trace it back to the moment they uncorked a 1971 Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache. The story that each of us tells about 'The Bottle That Changed Everything' is so unique, and so intensely personal that it is impossible to pinpoint the precise elements required to achieve the epiphany; the moment of clarity that converts us from indifferent, apathetic wine drinkers into true enthusiasts. It is rare that you will find it if you are looking for it, because it will never quite be what you expect.

My brother and his flat-mate decided in early 2011 that they would establish a Fine Wine Night (FWN). The idea was simple enough: once a month they would splurge on one or two bottles of good wine and match them with food. It allowed them to experience wines they would not usually be able to afford, or have access to on a regular basis. To establish what would constitute 'Fine Wine', who better to consult than James Halliday, THE authority on Australian wine. Halliday has an iPhone App that provides some 50,000 tasting notes. For the uninitiated, this is a great way to learn about different wine styles and build up a knowledge base. Once he had downloaded the App, he would search bottle shops and fine wine merchants for bottles that matched some key criteria: they were approaching maturity, they were considered to be 'premium' by their makers, and they had a minimum rating score of 95 on the Halliday App.

In early April 2011, my brother came to visit my wife and I while he had some time off work, and we decided to have our own FWN. Our wine knowledge was very limited, and we would never venture outside the standards: a bottle of Marlborough Savvy, and MAYBE a cheap Pinot Noir if we were feeling fancy, so we were excited to be trying something new and interesting.

We decided we would go to Dan Murphy's and buy a white and a red. We took the Halliday App and searched the racks for something that was interesting, but above all, achieved the 95 point rating. Our limited knowledge of fine wine proved helpful, and we applied no prejudice towards any specific brands or varieties. We eventually settled on a 2003 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz, and a 1996 McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon. 

The Penfolds St Henri is a pretty special wine. In good years, it can display everything people love about Penfolds Shiraz (at a fraction of the cost of a bottle of Grange). Most would agree that this was a great bottle to start our fine wine journey.

I cannot, for the life of me, remember anything about the St Henri; the palate, the smell, the colour, all lost to me, so thoroughly eclipsed it was by the Lovedale. I do remember that it was April 6. Wednesday April 6 2011. Roughly 7:00pm.

Hunter Valley Semillon has been described by some as Australia's unique wine gift to the world. No other wine region makes anything similar. Most that grow Semillon blend it with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay or Voigner, and in the rare instances it is made as a straight varietal, it is treated with oak. Not so in the Hunter, and when made well, it can age for upwards of 20 years. Most winemakers will tell you to drink it straight away, or put it away until the end of it's development, when it transforms from clear greenish-yellow into deep gold, and from lightly lemon flavoured into a robust combination of honey and buttered toast (which is often mistaken for oak).

What strikes me as interesting about the moment you know a wine has changed your life, is that everything you scoffed at beforehand (those wine snobs, swirling their glasses, sticking their noses in and describing ridiculous flavours) suddenly comes so clearly into focus. Finding the words to describe what you are tasting is essential: this is not just grape juice, how can it be? When a wine is good those words we use to describe it fit perfectly. And when you concentrate, you can taste those flavours so intensely and so vividly.

These experiences are the ones that shape the way we view wine. Until a person has that moment, they will never understand why we describe wine with such passion and why we obsess over the experience of  wine. Not just the tasting, but the ritual of smelling, assessing colour, matching with food, even matching with music. The moment will be different for everyone, and will undoubtedly be a different brand, a different variety, a different region. My challenge to those who are yet to experience the wine epiphany is to explore. Try as many varietals as you can find. Try them from different regions and different countries. Establish a similar Fine Wine night concept with some close friends (it helps to absorb the cost!)

One thing I can say for sure, you will never understand the passion your family members, co-workers or friends exhibit until you do.

 What/Where to Buy:

1996 McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon may still be available at some Dan Murphy's stores. It retails for around $79.95

If you would like to explore Hunter Semillon and don't want to spend that much, here are a few things you can try:

These wines are all currently available from bottle shops. In Canberra, check out Plonk at the Fyshwick Markets, Costco, Dan Murphy's, Jim Murphy's, 1st Choice and George's Liquor Stable in Phillip.

$15-30

Tyrrell's Single Vineyard Belford Semillon 2006

Tyrrell's Single Vineyard HVD Semillon 2006

Meerea Park Alexander Munroe Semillon 2006

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2005

Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2011 (Thomas Wines website only)

Brokenwood Semillon 2011

$30-50

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 2005

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2005

$50+

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1999

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 1996