September Reviews.

Welcome to the September 2012 review. Tied leaders here, a shiraz with some nice aged characteristics coming through, and a super-premium young shiraz that needs 20 more years to show its potential. Some good value bottles in here too, titles of these are in italics.

Brindabella Hills Shiraz 2005 – 95

This was the first bottle of wine my wife and I purchased together on a vineyard tour in 2008. After 7 years in the bottle, the wine had progressed well, with wonderful tannin integration, and some really rich, moreish aged characters of leather, chocolate and spice. The colour still had a crimson tint, and the wine coated the glass completely with each swirl. The oak had developed nicely, toasty and warm, and the fruit characters very much still evident.

My last bottle will be kept another few years yet, as this wine had plenty left in its legs.

 

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2010 – 95

Such a beautiful wine. Opening this bottle so soon is tantamount to blasphemy. Selected off the wine list at Restaurant Mason in Newcastle, this wine shows what modern Hunter Shiraz is about – elegance and restraint, but definitely a nod to the past with the earthy middle-weighted characters still evident. Deep purple colour, nose full of berries and spice, and a luscious, intense palate.

Wish a had 6 or so tucked away at home, because this will get better and better over the next 20+ years easily.

Majella The Musician Cabernet Shiraz 2011 – 93

A finer example of Cabernet Shiraz, much less oak driven than was expected. Black fruits are abundant, and what appears to be a touch of stalky complexity that gives the wine a real depth of character. The score awarded reflects the price as much as anything – just about the best red on the market under $20 for mine.

Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2012 – 93

A bit more rounded and soft than the 2011. The lower acidity and therefore less intense citrus flavours make this a difficult wine to place. Opened up in the glass progressively, and I think the wine was initially served too cold. A wet year in the Hunter, and that does go some way to explaining these characteristics. Still has some great varietal flavours, just missing the overall power and excellence we expect from Braemore.

Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2010 – 91

A Pinot with some real body and character. On recommendation, I gave this wine a decent decant, and the wine was very grateful for it. Fleshy and surprisingly rich, it showed flavours of oak and raspberries, and disappeared all too quickly. Would want a bit more for the price, but in all a very satisfying, interesting wine.

Jim Barry Watervale Riseling 2012 – 90

Too early to drink. Not as in it needs time to develop aged characteristics, but in that it was bottled too recently to open. I do enjoy a good young Riesling, and following on from 2011, and the quality expected from 2012, I was excited by this wine. Jim Barry Watervale is always a quality quaffer, and this wine will be as well after it settles a bit. At present, it has a green tartness that detracts from the purity of the flavours (that green flavour that turns me off Sauvignon Blanc so much). All the elements are there, it just needs time. I will wait another 3-4 months before I open another bottle.

Rosemount Estates Show Reserve Shiraz 2004 – 90

A bit heavy, and lacking in any fruit. Feels a good 5 years older than the label says. No real faults, and the structure / weight is ok. Enjoyable for what it is though.

Tyrrell's Vat 47 Chardonnay 2010 – 90

A modern, elegant chardonnay – restrained oak, wisteria nose. Palate shows some mild old-school chardonnay characters, but a big, flabby,  buttery chardonnay it is not. I’m sure one who is more experienced with chardonnays would appreciate this more, but it just isn’t my thing.

Piano Piano Oliver's Blend Merlot Cabernet 2010 – 90

Really solid performer for its price range. Good varietal characteristics, smooth, silky tannins, and a moreishness that sees the bottle run out far too quickly. Simple, good quality drink.

Nepenthe Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – 89

About as good as Sauvignon Blanc gets for me. Not overtly green like a number of Aussie Sauv’s can be, but stays away from the obtuse tropical NZ style as well. Good fruit, some unripe pineapple on the palate, and a decent length to make this a good value quaffer.

Elderton Botrytis Semillon 2008 – 88

Acidic and sweet. My, is this sweet! A little too sweet for me, the acidity not harmonising completely, just simply – there. Honey and apricot flavours are delicious, but not altogether a very balanced wine.

Tyrrell's Brookdale Semillon 2011 – 88

The Brookdale never quite captures my imagination the way the HVD, Belford, Johnno’s and Vat 1 do. It lacks the complexity and real intensity of those quality, distinctly different wines from Tyrrell’s. The ’11 has been the most enjoyable Brookdale yet for mine, but slightly rounded and un-challenging.

Chateau Haut-Madrac 2007 – 86

Really dusty and thick – no real fruit characters to be derived due to the overly dominant oak and tannin.